Erin trims out under the bustline of her Uniquely You form to get the perfectly shaped bosom.

We’ve written before about how much we enjoy the Uniquely You forms.  They are really the best way to get the most use out of an adjustable dress form while maintaining flexibility. When you are getting into the initial stages, you may find that the form is too big so that even when you get the shaped cover on, it still bulges because of the pressure. Not to fear!  If you use an electric knife or bread knife to pre-cut it, you can trim the shape down a bit so that it doesn’t give you an undefined bulge.  This is especially good to keep inRead More →

Tchad's buttonhole template with notes for placement.

If you have a pattern you make a lot and you already know the ins-and-outs of the general sewing but always drag your feet when it comes to making the final marks for buttonholes and other finishing details, make a template to keep with the pattern.  Also be sure to note any of the regular measurements you use.  We find that a 3.5″ buttonhole spacing is perfect for dress shirts, so that is the spacing we use on ALL dress shirts or garments that are in the dress-shirt-adjacent family.  Just make a template and a note about details and off you go. We use aRead More →

Progression of pattern manipulation from straight to flare

We’ve recently had a ton of students telling us that A. We don’t update the blog enough (and seeing as how we have 72 stored drafts in the draft folder, we’d be inclined to agree).           and B. They want to know how to do specific stuff and want tutorials. So, to keep the revolutionaries in check and anarchy at bay, here is our first update in a while to walk you through turning a straight skirt pattern into a flared pattern.  A little shout-out to Sophia here (Thanks Sophia!) for making the classes worthwhile for us and off we go!Read More →

Clamps holding down denim belt loops for perfect flatness.

One of the things that happens up here when people are sewing tough or rigid fabrics is that they can’t get a good professional press. If you have a tailor’s point press, anvil, clapper, and some clamps you will be able to get that thing to lay flat as a flitter. Get a lot of live steam and heat in the seam, then clap it between two pieces of wood and fasten.  You can take the clamps off when it cools and move on to the next section. It is especially helpful when you are doing belt loops or complex junctions in heavy fabric. ItRead More →

There was a question recently over on Metafilter about how to fix small holes and tears in a set of sheers that the asker didn’t want to let go of yet.  They looked something like this: The answer is that you can’t really repair the holes or recreate pristine fabric, but you can mend them so they are as inconspicuous as possible. Here is the best way to do it without driving yourself crazy. Get some sheer fusible interfacing. Nothing too heavy. You are looking for something like Pellon SK135 by the yard. Get a yard or two of it. Have an iron, a pair ofRead More →