Sewing classes in Chicago: Tchad: Workroom: Studio: Library: Designing Overcoat Patterns for Men and Young Men: David

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David recently sent us a link wanting to come to classes and work out some of the finer points in the drafting instructions for   an early 20th century men’s overcoat from Designing Overcoat Patterns for Men and Young Men by Harry Simons published by The Clothing Designer and Manufacturer, NY, NY, 1916.Read More →

sewing classes in chicago: tchad: Paillettes: sewing studio: debbie: permoda

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Debbie has been on a roll again with pageant showstoppers as part of her D’Jean series. This dress is interesting, in that she is venturing out into developing patterns of her own based roughly on multiple pieces from multiple patterns then overlaid with her own interpretation. She started with the bodice from Simplicity #8330.  She modified the shape to fit just a bit better and did a little sculpting through the sides and back. The skirt section is loosely based on Neue Mode #22627 with the flare of the skirt changed subtly. Once we got through the initial redrafting, shaping, and draping, we were goodRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: omoleye: skirt: copy : knit: pattern making

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In: 1st Projects, Basic, Drafting, General, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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Omoleye came to us with a basic sense of sewing and wanted to work up a duplicate of a knit skirt she already had – so we dove in and ended up with both the hard pattern for a mid-thigh knit skirt with a waistband and exposed zipper as well as the skirt itself! We don’t always start with these duplication projects, but if you keep it simple and take your time, it almost always works out great!  Read More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: drafting: workroom: final dress project: red silk: black buttons

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We get a lot (dude.  a LOT) of requests for first time projects up here.  Sometimes there is an automatic veto, sometimes there is a warning or caveat, and sometimes we are ON BOARD from the start.  This post is about one of the times we had no doubt. She came to us at first with just a rendering of the dress: We didn’t want to take the time to draft the sloper from scratch – it would have taken too long and eaten into our class time.  She was more interested in using the sloper to rough out the shape and work on herRead More →

sewing classes in chicago: tchad: drafting: label and date patterns: workroom: project

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Whether you are altering a pattern and retracing it or making a new pattern from scratch, we cannot stress this enough: Label and date your patterns. Label and date your patterns. Label and date your patterns. Ok, got it? The thing is that as you work, you are going to be developing patterns and shapes and then forget their contexts.  You don’t think you will, but then 2 years have passed and you pick up that pair of pants you started and… where was I again? If you label and date your patterns you will find that you will have an easier time picking thingsRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: Workroom: books: Zarapkar: System of Cutting

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Zarapkar: System of Cutting by Shiri K.R. Zarapkar  is a good solid standard around here when we need to talk about Indian or Pakistani clothing in the abstract or concrete. Amazon says of it: Provides detailed and complete information with instructions about measurements, cutting and sewing of dresses for adults and children, men’s pants, capes, saris, aprons, nightgowns, blouses, as well as many Indian fashion designs. Includes many many excellent illustrations. And that is true, but let’s go a little deeper here. First of all, just FYI, this isn’t a sewing manual. It is a tailor’s design and cutting manual that was published by NanveetRead More →

Patternmaking for Menswear

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We’ve had a few students use Patternmaking for Menswear by Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim a few times, most recently by Jae to make a Fall hoodie.   Amazon says of it: This comprehensive men’s patternmaking text covers many different garment types and design elements, including patternmaking techniques for both woven and knit fabrics. The step-by-step format with accompanying detailed illustrations is appropriate for beginning to advanced students, as well as the industry professionals looking to sharpen their patternmaking skill. Photographs provide examples of completed garments on the dress form and clear illustrations are highlighted with color to show precisely what to do at each stepRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: student project: ankit: pattern drafting: jeans: custom

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Ankit had already worked up a couple of shirts and wanted to venture into denim. It isn’t easy making good denim as a hobby sewer.  It tends to look a little cheap if you don’t have the right tools.   And so, while we still won’t let you do denim for a first project, we can be convinced to let you do it for your… let’s say 3rd… …almost done…Read More →

Ada Shows off the flared skirt she drafted in her 2nd class at Tchad's Workrooms

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In: Basic, Drafting, General, Intermediate, Intermediate Projects, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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Ada wanted something special for her second class and had just bought a few meters of gilded cut cotton velvet.  We already had a basic straight skirt and a couple of tunics, so we drafted this flared skirt from the sloper. With the extra yardage, we sewed it together and she made this matching gele!     It can be hard to get the flare positioned properly on these skirts – you want to start the flare just below the knee and then bring it out from there based on how full you want it to be. We’ll be putting together a brief tutorial onRead More →

Progression of pattern manipulation from straight to flare

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We’ve recently had a ton of students telling us that A. We don’t update the blog enough (and seeing as how we have 72 stored drafts in the draft folder, we’d be inclined to agree).           and B. They want to know how to do specific stuff and want tutorials. So, to keep the revolutionaries in check and anarchy at bay, here is our first update in a while to walk you through turning a straight skirt pattern into a flared pattern.  A little shout-out to Sophia here (Thanks Sophia!) for making the classes worthwhile for us and off we go!Read More →