sewing classes: workroom: tchad: tools: iron: sealing iron: thunder tiger

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Usually used in packing and shipping operations, a sealing iron can be a nifty tool to keep on hand in a sewing and design workroom too.  It is a little larger than the miniature irons sold in fabric and craft stores – making it easier to use and handle – but not nearly as cumbersome as a regular iron. Around here, we’ve got this little guy: Introducing the Thunder Tiger Sealing irons come in a number of shapes and sizes.  You want one that has a point and a rheostat, is preferably teflon coated, and has a slight convex curve to the sole plate. ItRead More →

Tchad: corset: decima: workroom: sewing classes

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We usually don’t do corsets up here – the corsets we talk about for strapless dresses are really more rigid long-line girdles, but that’s such an old lady word, right? – there are better places in Chicago to take corset making classes than here.  Look, we’re honest about our strong points. But if they aren’t in season… And we like you as a person… And you are good at arm-twisting… And then… we guess you get what you want. The thing is that if you have finished a corset and you have never worn a corset before… It is great!  All of the sudden youRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: stdio: christen: sequins: bodice: blouse: darts

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Sequined fabrics come up a lot in classes – from Indian to more Western pavé yardage and everything in between. Sometimes the conversation about them revolves around how hard on the machine and how uncomfortable they can be to wear.  This tells us that these people have only been wearing clothes with the sequins sewn into the seam.  To make the piece less scratchy and irritating, and to give it literally a seamless look, remove the sequins from the seam allowances, saving them to fill in the voids once you are done.  It takes longer, but it is entirely worth it – especially when youRead More →

sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: netta: pattern placement: lace: under

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A quick tip if you are either having trouble placing you pattern on top of a lace or sheer or you want to be able to mirror or otherwise position the pattern on the piece nicely: Put the pattern itself under the fabric you are using and then either gingerly cut from there or throw a few pins in to keep it from sliding.  If you cover the table with a flannel or textured fabric that contrasts to the fabric you are cutting, even better to see what you are doing.  We use this all the time – especially for decorative placement.Read More →

sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: sylvia: wrap dress: front

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Learning how to sew and think about sewing doesn’t just make you able to build things from scratch and take them out into the world, it can also make you a better shopper for ready to wear in that you will know what to look for.  In a lot of ways, even if you never sew another stitch after a sewing class, you should end up being more informed generally about construction and design. This wrap dress Sylvia wore in is a good example.  We initially thought it was something about the level of Banana Republic or maybe something she had made outside of classRead More →

sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: tichel: mitpachat: knit

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Or perhaps a better title would be… “Tichel, you’re fancy!” So a student shows up to class looking a little down and wearing a plain tichel. She grabs a fancy knit scrap from the knit remnants, and 15 minutes later after some trimming and edging…   …and then we went on with the day. Because sometimes you just need a little something… more to get going…Read More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: Debbie permoda: butterick 5557: front #2

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So Debbie started off with Butterick #5557 to get a little dressy after-hours cocktail thing going on; we started off with the muslin.   Debbie is an advanced sewer, as is Tchad.  Our friends, let us tell you that these inset neckline corners are no fun at all if your fabric is too smooth and/or dense.  Debbie wanted to work this up in a medium weight satin, we dove in. The fit was great, although you really have to get those long side darts right or you will look ridiculous. Debbie chose a medium weight red satin, not unlike what the model in the pattern bookRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: tailoring supplies: iron: general mills: GM1A #4

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We were tooling around an old tailor’s shop that had closed down and was being sold off when we found this little guy. Let us tell you now: If you can find one of these with a cord in good shape or you have the ability to repair the cord, get it. The nice ting, besides the weight that we love so much, is that there is no flat edge to the plate of the iron.  This iron is perfect for ironing full yardage because it doesn’t leave a crimped back end mark, but it is also perfect to use as a detail iron forRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: drafting: workroom: final dress project: red silk: black buttons

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We get a lot (dude.  a LOT) of requests for first time projects up here.  Sometimes there is an automatic veto, sometimes there is a warning or caveat, and sometimes we are ON BOARD from the start.  This post is about one of the times we had no doubt. She came to us at first with just a rendering of the dress: We didn’t want to take the time to draft the sloper from scratch – it would have taken too long and eaten into our class time.  She was more interested in using the sloper to rough out the shape and work on herRead More →

sewing classes in chicago: tchad: drafting: label and date patterns: workroom: project

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Whether you are altering a pattern and retracing it or making a new pattern from scratch, we cannot stress this enough: Label and date your patterns. Label and date your patterns. Label and date your patterns. Ok, got it? The thing is that as you work, you are going to be developing patterns and shapes and then forget their contexts.  You don’t think you will, but then 2 years have passed and you pick up that pair of pants you started and… where was I again? If you label and date your patterns you will find that you will have an easier time picking thingsRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: Workroom: books: Zarapkar: System of Cutting

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Zarapkar: System of Cutting by Shiri K.R. Zarapkar  is a good solid standard around here when we need to talk about Indian or Pakistani clothing in the abstract or concrete. Amazon says of it: Provides detailed and complete information with instructions about measurements, cutting and sewing of dresses for adults and children, men’s pants, capes, saris, aprons, nightgowns, blouses, as well as many Indian fashion designs. Includes many many excellent illustrations. And that is true, but let’s go a little deeper here. First of all, just FYI, this isn’t a sewing manual. It is a tailor’s design and cutting manual that was published by NanveetRead More →