Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: Debbie permoda: butterick 5557: front #2

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In: General, Intermediate, Intermediate Projects, Patterns used in class, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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So Debbie started off with Butterick #5557 to get a little dressy after-hours cocktail thing going on; we started off with the muslin.   Debbie is an advanced sewer, as is Tchad.  Our friends, let us tell you that these inset neckline corners are no fun at all if your fabric is too smooth and/or dense.  Debbie wanted to work this up in a medium weight satin, we dove in. The fit was great, although you really have to get those long side darts right or you will look ridiculous. Debbie chose a medium weight red satin, not unlike what the model in the pattern bookRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: drafting: workroom: final dress project: red silk: black buttons

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In: 1st Projects, Drafting, General, Intermediate, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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We get a lot (dude.  a LOT) of requests for first time projects up here.  Sometimes there is an automatic veto, sometimes there is a warning or caveat, and sometimes we are ON BOARD from the start.  This post is about one of the times we had no doubt. She came to us at first with just a rendering of the dress: We didn’t want to take the time to draft the sloper from scratch – it would have taken too long and eaten into our class time.  She was more interested in using the sloper to rough out the shape and work on herRead More →

Verena's draped sleeveless blouse done at Tchad workrooms

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In: Draping, General, Intermediate, Intermediate Projects, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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When you have some leftover scraps form the remnant bin and love the fabric but don’t know what to do with them, one of the best things to play with is draping something like this sleeveless cropped blouse. Verena used the front and back from the workroom’s slope size 10 and worked her way out from there.  The front had to be pieced at the waistline to accommodate the odd-shaped scraps and the back had to be cut in a V, but it looks great. If you look at the neckline you can see a slight join where the black border wasn’t long enough toRead More →

Sana's first draping project at tchad workrooms

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In: 1st Projects, Basic, Draping, General, Intermediate, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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Sana came to the States having worked under a designer before and wanting to know more.  Over the course of the class, she draped this multi-sized grey floor length dress in georgette.     And then once she was done, she got a model to go out for a late-Winter photoshoot:  You can follow her on Instagram and watch her go go go!Read More →

Patternmaking for Menswear

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We’ve had a few students use Patternmaking for Menswear by Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim a few times, most recently by Jae to make a Fall hoodie.   Amazon says of it: This comprehensive men’s patternmaking text covers many different garment types and design elements, including patternmaking techniques for both woven and knit fabrics. The step-by-step format with accompanying detailed illustrations is appropriate for beginning to advanced students, as well as the industry professionals looking to sharpen their patternmaking skill. Photographs provide examples of completed garments on the dress form and clear illustrations are highlighted with color to show precisely what to do at each stepRead More →

Sewing classes in chicago: tchad: workroom: studio: student project: ankit: pattern drafting: jeans: custom

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In: Advanced, Drafting, General, Intermediate, Intermediate Projects, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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Ankit had already worked up a couple of shirts and wanted to venture into denim. It isn’t easy making good denim as a hobby sewer.  It tends to look a little cheap if you don’t have the right tools.   And so, while we still won’t let you do denim for a first project, we can be convinced to let you do it for your… let’s say 3rd… …almost done…Read More →

Ada Shows off the flared skirt she drafted in her 2nd class at Tchad's Workrooms

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In: Basic, Drafting, General, Intermediate, Intermediate Projects, Sewing classes (general), Student Projects
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Ada wanted something special for her second class and had just bought a few meters of gilded cut cotton velvet.  We already had a basic straight skirt and a couple of tunics, so we drafted this flared skirt from the sloper. With the extra yardage, we sewed it together and she made this matching gele!     It can be hard to get the flare positioned properly on these skirts – you want to start the flare just below the knee and then bring it out from there based on how full you want it to be. We’ll be putting together a brief tutorial onRead More →

Erin trims out under the bustline of her Uniquely You form to get the perfectly shaped bosom.

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In: Advanced, General, Intermediate, Sewing classes (general), Tips & Tricks
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We’ve written before about how much we enjoy the Uniquely You forms.  They are really the best way to get the most use out of an adjustable dress form while maintaining flexibility. When you are getting into the initial stages, you may find that the form is too big so that even when you get the shaped cover on, it still bulges because of the pressure. Not to fear!  If you use an electric knife or bread knife to pre-cut it, you can trim the shape down a bit so that it doesn’t give you an undefined bulge.  This is especially good to keep inRead More →

Tchad's buttonhole template with notes for placement.

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In: Advanced, Basic, General, Intermediate, Machines, Sewing classes (general), Tips & Tricks

If you have a pattern you make a lot and you already know the ins-and-outs of the general sewing but always drag your feet when it comes to making the final marks for buttonholes and other finishing details, make a template to keep with the pattern.  Also be sure to note any of the regular measurements you use.  We find that a 3.5″ buttonhole spacing is perfect for dress shirts, so that is the spacing we use on ALL dress shirts or garments that are in the dress-shirt-adjacent family.  Just make a template and a note about details and off you go. We use aRead More →

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Verena wanted to work up some simple modern clothes for the baby she’s expecting but wanted something gender neutral and clean. She found a copy of Esprit Kimono pour les Petits and, as a palate cleanser between all of the high-end and beadwork she’s gotten herself into lately, ran out some ADORABLE baby kimono tops in cotton prints.  These will make even the grumpiest grump smile.Read More →

Clamps holding down denim belt loops for perfect flatness.

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In: General, Intermediate, Sewing classes (general), Tips & Tricks, Tools
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One of the things that happens up here when people are sewing tough or rigid fabrics is that they can’t get a good professional press. If you have a tailor’s point press, anvil, clapper, and some clamps you will be able to get that thing to lay flat as a flitter. Get a lot of live steam and heat in the seam, then clap it between two pieces of wood and fasten.  You can take the clamps off when it cools and move on to the next section. It is especially helpful when you are doing belt loops or complex junctions in heavy fabric. ItRead More →

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We found this post lingering in the drafts folder and couldn’t have felt worse.  Too cute os a project to be left in a server’s memory banks without showing it to everyone! Three types of knit and a LOT of handwork.  We get a lot of requests for knit up here, and with the caveat that sewing knit is different form woven in terms of the applied skillset, we are always down for some knit sewing!Read More →

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We purchased Handsewn: The Essential Techniques for Tailoring and Embellishment by Margaret Rowan to help give some direction to students who were learning hand sewing and tailoring. We needed something that was comprehensive but wasn’t an embroidery book specifically. Amazon says of it:  “Take handsewing to the next level! Sewists are developing increasing interest in heritage handsewing techniques that add beautiful or couturelike finishing touches to the final project. Small handfinished details can quickly become a testament to the style, creativity, and skill of the sewist. Handsewn offers step-by-step instructions for a comprehensive collection of hand-finishing and embellishing techniques, including hems, edges, buttonholes, cuffs, tacking layersRead More →

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In: Advanced, Books, General, Intermediate, Patterns used in class, Sewing classes (general)
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Verena wanted to work up some clothes for her baby so that it has some cute modern non-gender specific stuff to wear when it gets here, and started looking for a copy of “Esprit Kimono pour les Petits” by Peggy Goyer-Roussel and Zazo Bouzi. It is a French children’s pattern book that can be hard to find, but she found it and worked up some of the cutest little kimono-inspired tops. The instructions are all in French, but the sequence and layout will make this easy enough for the non-French speaking intermediate sewer. The shapes are simple and if you do read French, the directionsRead More →